From the very origins of Paco Rabanne, there has always been an obsession with materiality, radical textures, non-organic silhouettes.
For Spring Summer 2023, Julien Dossena explores beneath and beyond the surface, subverting perceptions of sensuality and strength. With an intuition towards the future, the collection becomes a sublime projection of femininity in the face of unknown forces. Metal grates and scaffolding – an echo to one of the earliest Paco Rabanne shows – evoke an underground scene. There is an excitement that stirs, the sense of things on the verge of being shaken up. Coded references start crossing over into an alluring, hybridised space: grunge flourishes interface with cyber-specific hues of vivid green, violet, blue and red. Fetish-inspired materials such as clear PVC are developed to elevated effect, merged with masculine suiting, or shown as a parka covered in studs like droplets of liquid metal. There are sumptuous and romantic applications of PVC, as well, printed with flowers and panelling classic grain de poudre, or placed atop tapestry fabric. When PVC seamlessly fuses with assemblage, it’s as though the look is changing states, almost morphing.