FURLING

Furling calls its sheepskins superleggeri, and the Flora shows what that buys in volume. The pile is long and softly blond, cut full length on a double-breasted front with flap pockets and a stand collar that turns up against the wind. Miele is the brand's word for it: honey, more gold than beige.

Gianna Giani built Furling on plain shearling coats, and the Emma is the most straightforward of them. Caramel shearling is worked fleece out on a long, straight body, with a small point collar, welt pockets and a single row of buttons down the front. The colour sits between tobacco and toffee, depending on the light.

Furling puts its print on the hide itself, not on cloth. The Mara coat is long and double-breasted, cut from short-pile leather printed leopard in black over a warm brown ground, with notch lapels, flap pockets and a self-tie belt at the waist. A trench line, in a material that is anything but sober.

Empoli, in the leather country west of Florence, is where Furling cuts and assembles. The Allison is merino shearling cut oversized and reversing to leather, closing on three dark buttons, with the smooth side showing at the collar facing. Two jackets in one hide.

The Furling palette runs to earth tones, and bordeaux is the deepest of them. The Niv jacket wraps across the front with no visible closure, cut from merino shearling shorn to a short dense pile, its point collar rolling soft against the neck. In most light the colour reads closer to black than to wine.

Most of what Furling makes is shearling; the Moon bomber is leather all through. It is cut full in the body from supple black nappa, with a stand collar, a concealed placket, epaulette tabs at the shoulder and an elasticated hem that draws the volume in. The finish is low-sheen, the line soft.

Furling shears its merino close, and the Perla makes the most of that flat, even pile. It is cut straight and easy in black, with a point collar, two deep patch pockets set at the hip and a placket that hides its buttons. Nothing about it announces itself; the fleece does the work.

Gianna Giani founded Furling on Tuscan leather-working, and the Asha bomber shows the range of it. Dark ebony suede is cut to a short blouson with flap patch pockets and a zip front, and the collar is a spotted long-hair pelt in tobacco and black. The suede is brushed soft enough to read as cloth.

Furling's reversible pieces are where the house puts its craft. The Ines jacket carries dense mouton shearling on one face and smooth leather on the other, with a deep hood and a two-way zip that works from either side. Fleece out, the pile is dense enough to stand away from the body.

Furling's reversible pieces are where the house puts its craft. The Ines jacket carries dense mouton shearling on one face and smooth leather on the other, with a deep hood and a two-way zip that works from either side. The caramel runs warm and even, from the hood facing down to the cuffs.