BALMAIN

Balmain cuts this black silk shirt loose, with raglan sleeves and a long pointed collar. Panels of satin fall from the shoulders like a short cape and gather in soft folds along each arm, so the shirt moves more than it sits. Buttoned cuffs and a curved hem keep the tailoring precise underneath.

Balmain's signature jacket takes its lines from military uniform. Virgin wool gabardine is cut close, with structured rounded shoulders, epaulette tabs, gusseted chest pockets and five officer-style gold-tone buttons below a hook-fastened standing collar. A removable tone-on-tone belt marks the waist, where the hem curves away into a short peplum.

Balmain cuts this jacket from smooth black lambskin with a pronounced waist and a short peplum flaring at the hip. It fastens asymmetrically with four covered press studs, and two leather tabs buckle in silver-tone metal at the stand collar. Gathered cuffs and topstitched back darts finish a piece that carries the house's tailoring into leather.

Balmain builds this jacket on the house's strong shoulder, rounded and structured, then softens it below with a waist draped and caught in a knot. The satin crepe closes edge to edge beneath a self-tie shawl collar and is lined in tone-on-tone satin. Made in France, it is evening tailoring with the buttons taken away.

Balmain builds these from a dense wool gabardine, cut straight and pleated flat at the waist. Gold-tone buttons fasten the front and sit in pairs above the piped side pockets, with a tone-on-tone satin cord trim following the seams and a buttoned tab to adjust each side. The buttons are the only break in the black.

Balmain drapes lambskin across the front of this midi skirt, the leather gathered from one hip and folded into a wrap. A metal zip runs down the back, its pull engraved with the house name, over a tone-on-tone satin lining. Fitted through the hip, the wrap falls to a point at the hem.

Balmain's tailoring instincts carry into knitwear here: a bouclé tweed knitted in cream, with a fine gold thread running through the weave. Two domed gold buttons sit above welt pockets at the hip, and the waistband and hem are left frayed rather than bound. The skirt ends high on the thigh and holds a straight line from the waist.

Balmain takes the motorcycle line into smooth lambskin: a belt with a rectangular buckle at the waist, angled zip pockets cut across the hip, and ribbed panels topstitched over each knee. The front closes on a concealed zip and two press studs. Ankle zips finish a leg cut narrow to the foot.

Balmain cuts these in smooth lambskin, fitted close and seamed with a pintuck down the front of each leg. Metal zips open the slanted side pockets, their pulls engraved with the house name, and a fine elastic stirrup runs under the arch to hold the hem. Leather cut to the discipline of tailoring.

Balmain works in grain de poudre, the fine worsted wool of evening tailoring, matte-faced and dense enough to take a press and keep it. A narrow flat waistband closes on a small gilt clasp, above slanted front pockets and a crease pressed the length of each leg. The hem breaks wide over the shoe.

Balmain reworks the legging in a Milano jersey that holds its own structure, knitted dense enough to read as tailoring. The rise sits high at the natural waist, the leg tapers clean to the ankle, and an invisible side zip keeps the line unbroken. A small gold B charm is stitched at the waistband.

Balmain gives its denim jacket a couture waist. Curved seams shape the cotton through the body and release it at the hip into two flared panels, while a shearling shirt collar softens the neckline. Silver-tone buttons engraved with the house name close the front and the flap pockets, and the washed blue keeps it grounded.

Balmain cuts this slip dress from sheer black chiffon scattered with raised velvet flowers in gold, the pile and a metallic thread catching light against the dark ground. Fine spaghetti straps hold a draped wrap bodice that gathers at the hip and opens into an asymmetric slit at the hem. Short and close to the body, it is made for evening.

Balmain drapes this long-sleeved jersey blouse from a shawl collar that falls open into a plunging V. The fluid viscose wraps across the body and ties at the side with a wide sash, marking the waist the house always defines, while gathered cuffs finish the soft shoulders. In black the drape reads as pure line.

Balmain's silk charmeuse top is all drape. A high standing collar, buttoned at the back, gathers the cloth at the throat before it falls across the body to a wide silk sash knotted at the hip, its ends left long. The armholes are cut away and the back left open, so the green satin catches light on every fold.