Shirts

Balmain cuts this black silk shirt loose, with raglan sleeves and a long pointed collar. Panels of satin fall from the shoulders like a short cape and gather in soft folds along each arm, so the shirt moves more than it sits. Buttoned cuffs and a curved hem keep the tailoring precise underneath.

Elie Saab's embellished silk shirt keeps a pointed collar and adds a long tie at the neck. Two mirrored floral sprays in pink, lavender and olive sequins climb the front on either side of the placket, stitched onto powder white silk. The rest of the shirt stays plain, so the embroidery reads clearly from across a room.

Fortela reworks American workwear archetypes through an Italian lens. This is its texana shirt — the western cut — in cotton denim washed until the colour softens and the cloth gives. Straight through the body, easy to wear open over a tee or tucked. A faded, even blue.

Alaïa gives the poplin shirt a sculpted flare. In black cotton, panel seams run from the shoulder and open into an A-line that falls past the hip, finished with a long pointed collar, a concealed placket and deep cuffs. Worn over slim pants, the hem swings as it moves.

Victoria Beckham takes a men's shirting stripe and turns it at the chest: the patch pocket is cut on the bias so its lines meet the body's in a chevron, and the cuffs repeat the trick. Crisp cotton, a long point collar, a body cut wide through the shoulder. In blue and white it sits closest to the borrowed original.

Victoria Beckham takes a men's shirting stripe and turns it at the chest: the patch pocket is cut on the bias so its lines meet the body's in a chevron, and the cuffs repeat the trick. Crisp cotton, a long point collar, a body cut wide through the shoulder. Marsh green against white keeps it earthbound rather than nautical.

Cotton poplin and rib knit meet halfway down the arm on this Alaïa shirt. The body is cut short and cinched, with a French collar, a concealed button placket and V-shaped seams at front and back, while the sleeves gather above the elbow into close ribbed knit to the wrist. In black the two textures separate by sheen alone.

Alaïa builds this short poplin shirt with a knitwear sleeve. Crisp cotton forms the body, with a French collar, a concealed placket and V-shaped seams front and back; above the elbow each sleeve gathers into a long rib knit that runs close to the wrist. White poplin makes the change of texture sharp.

Pierre Louis Mascia cuts an oversized silk shirt with a patch pocket, long-sleeved and relaxed through the body. The printed silk drapes light and easy. In black.